A rainbow over rows of young vines in Kakheti

Kakheti qvevri wine day

Two family marani (wine cellars), the hilltop town of Sighnaghi, and Bodbe Monastery. Taste amber and red wines made in UNESCO-listed qvevri, with a supra-style lunch.

At a glance

Duration
10 hours1 day, leaves Tbilisi 09:00, lunch included
Difficulty
EasyShort walks only. Sighnaghi is hilly with cobbled lanes, and Bodbe has steps down to the spring if you want them.
Meeting point
Freedom Square, by the St George column, 09:00Free pickup from hotels in central Tbilisi from 08:40.
Best season
  • January: Possible, with trade-offs
  • February: Possible, with trade-offs
  • March: Possible, with trade-offs
  • April: Good time to go
  • May: Good time to go
  • June: Good time to go
  • July: Possible, with trade-offs, hot
  • August: Possible, with trade-offs, hot
  • September: Good time to go, harvest
  • October: Good time to go, harvest
  • November: Good time to go
  • December: Possible, with trade-offs
Good most of the year. Late September and October is rtveli, the grape harvest, when cellars are busiest and you may get to press grapes.

The day, hour by hour

  1. 09:00

    Over the Gombori Pass

    East out of Tbilisi and over the forested Gombori range into the Alazani valley. About two hours.

  2. 11:00

    First marani: how qvevri work

    A family cellar where the qvevri, big clay jars, are buried up to their necks. See how the grapes ferment with their skins, then taste five wines.

  3. 12:30

    Bodbe Monastery

    Resting place of St Nino, who brought Christianity to Georgia. Quiet gardens with a view across the valley to the Caucasus.

  4. 13:30

    Sighnaghi town walls

    An hour to walk the 18th-century walls and the lanes of the old town.

  5. 14:45

    Second marani and lunch

    A long table: pkhali, badrijani, mtsvadi and bread from the tone oven, with the family's wines. The host may make a toast or two; that's the supra tradition, led by a tamada (toastmaster).

  6. 19:00

    Back in Tbilisi

    Drop-off at your hotel.

What's included

  • Hotel pickup and drop-off in central Tbilisi
  • Two cellar visits with about ten wines to taste
  • Supra-style lunch with house wine
  • English-speaking guide and a driver who doesn't drink

Not included

  • Bottles to take home, usually ₾25 to ₾60
  • Tips

Before you book

  • Pours are generous. Nobody minds if you taste and leave the rest.
  • Guests under 18 get grape juice and churchkhela instead of wine.
  • During rtveli, from late September into October, cellars get busy. Book at least a week ahead.
  • July and August afternoons in the Alazani valley are often above 35°C.

Who usually runs it

  • Nino

    Guide, Kakheti and Tbilisi

    Grew up in Telavi. Studied winemaking in Tbilisi and knows which cellar door to knock on.

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